Lima is for Drinkers

9/15/09 – 12:17 am. Mike and I land in Lima, Peru.

Teresa and Milagros meet us at the airport and lead us to a taxi. We hop in and Teresa immediately hands me a beer. I think I´m going to like South America. And so my first impression of Peru – there are no rules.

We spend the first night getting to know each other over Pisco sours and cancha, the popular Andean snack made from a special variety of corn called maiz chulpe. The kernels are salted and toasted but don´t pop and burst out like traditional popcorn. They are the Peruvian equivalent to American bar nuts. The first word I learn in South America is ¨borracho,¨ (drunk) which appropriately sets the theme for our first week. After a day of stress, airplanes, beer and Pisco we  retire to bed.

The next day we go to Bembo´s and sample Peruvian fast food. I order a burger topped with chorizo and some sort of fried flakes that look like frings (onion ring slices). I come to the conclusion that 1) Fast food is universally disappointing 2) The food barely resembles the pictures on the menu 3) When hungry, fast food always seems like a great idea but I always immediately regret eating it.

They do sell beer, however, which Mike brings along while we check out the mall and supermarket. Upon entering the grocery store an employee stops Mike; not to take the beer but to give him a sticker to show proof of purchase. Apparently in Lima it is perfectly suitable to sip a beer while grocery shopping.

The girls show us different sections of the city via cab, which is an experience in itself. Driving in Lima could and should be considered an extreme sport. The taxi drivers are hands down the worst drivers I have ever seen – and I´m from New Jersey. They treat traffic laws as mere suggestions, driving four vehicles across a three lane street, darting in front of one another, all without glancing in a mirror. Forget about yielding for pedestrians. If 6 Flags opened a ¨Lima Taxi¨ ride it would probably be the most popular attraction. The drivers are that ridiculous.

At face value the city of Lima gives the impression of being crowded, fast-paced, and slightly dangerous. From April to December garúa (coastal fog) plagues the city, making the weather grey and chilly every day. The city´s gloomy tone started to wear on me after four days so it´s no wonder everyone looks miserable. Most neighborhoods look like the developing world but there are a few diamonds in the rough worth a visit. The Barranco district is one of them.

Teresa and Milagros both work at a Barranco bar called Santos. The foosball table, outside terrace, delicious food, potent drinks and bohemian decor give Santos a stellar combination that lands it on my list of top 5 favorite bars in South America.

Our first night at Santos we try Coca Sours. Made with coca-leaf-infused Pisco, the drink has a slightly darker green hue than a traditional Pisco Sour and a more complex flavor thanks to some herbal overtones. Later that night we party at a disco called Tequila´s for someone´s birthday – I´m still not sure whose it was. Mike and I get a bottle of Johnny Walker Red, a bottle of rum and a bunch of mixers, all for $25. When we finally leave we step out into daylight – it´s 7am.

Another day we seek out the popular cuisine Cuy (aka guinea pig). The waiter gives us the option of ordering the whole rodent or just a section. We opt for the whole damn thing – head, teeth and claws still in tact. I must say it was quite disappointing. There is very little meat on it. It tastes like chicken, only worse; it is tougher and gamier. The dish´s appearance is unappetizing, to say the least, with its menacing head still attached, baring teeth. And it was expensive. It cost around $20 for the plate!

We were only in Lima for 4 days but thanks to our wonderful tour guides we saw a ton. In a glimpse: drank pisco/coca sours, ate cuy, enjoyed arroz con pollo, took siestas, chilled at Santos, walked around Miraflores, rock climbed, partied at Tequila disco til 7am, watched Alf, ran through fountains, played soccer futbol, visited the oldest bar in the city, and saw the president´s house.

[Background: It was our first time meeting Teresa and Milagros but we quickly became good friends. Thanks so much for everything!]

The Circuito Magico del Agua is an aquatic exhibit made up of 10 or so giant water fountains and is a surprisingly cool attraction that I recommend visiting given the chance.

Tip: Visit at night when the exhibits are illuminated.

Although Lima isn´t likely to win any beauty awards, its generous conversion rate and laid back tone make it a fun city for partying.

Next stop: Machu Picchu via Cusco!

Tagged as: barranco, Circuito Magico del Agua, lima, peru, santos, south america travel, taxi drinking, tourism